Today we took the road from Moorings Campsite toward the Lower Zambezi, passing through the villages scattered across the river’s fertile “garden.” As we dropped into the valley, the landscape opened up into that unmistakable Lower Zambezi atmosphere — smoky cooking fires, small fields of maize and vegetables, children waving, and the steady rhythm of daily life unfolding along the roadside. We drove slowly, taking it all in: the roadside markets with bright piles of tomatoes and onions, women c