That practice, and a flickering memory of a long-ago M.F.K. Fisher story about tangerines and snow and a radiator (see footnote), inspired what has become a current obsession: Peeled, dried citrus.

If you can't find dried cuttlefish or dislike it, leave it out. Chun pei (dried tangerine peel) comes in segments that are usually attached at the base; for this dish, you need one or two segments ...

"The signed decree excluded from the list: fresh or dried oranges, fresh or dried tangerines (including tangiers and satsuma), clementines, wilkings and similar citrus Hebrides, fresh apricots ...